Laobanzhang: Our Tribute Visit to the King of Pu’er
There are places in the tea world that carry near-mythical weight. Laobanzhang (老班章) is one of them. Tucked in the misty mountains of southern Yunnan, this remote village is known among tea lovers as the king of Pu’er tea—and for good reason.
In spring 2023, guided by our friend and collaborator Ms. Ye, we had the rare chance to visit this iconic village. We didn’t bring any tea back with us—not yet—but what we took away was something just as valuable: insight into a place that has come to define quality, exclusivity, and the complex culture behind modern-day Pu’er.
The Road to Laobanzhang: A Village Like No Other
Our journey began in Menghai, the heart of Xishuangbanna. Ms. Ye, a tea master whose Shu Pu’er we currently offer, led the way. Her mother, once chief quality officer at TAETEA, now runs her own blending factory and holds long-standing ties with key figures in the region. Thanks to her connections, the gates of Laobanzhang opened to us—a privilege not extended to outsiders without trust or ties.
Entering the village, we passed a security checkpoint—not to guard tea leaves, but to protect the local credit mutual, a kind of village bank reportedly filled with cash. The 130 or so families living here are famously wealthy, thanks to the astronomical prices their tea commands. Many have built lavish mansions, seemingly competing with each other over who can raise the most majestic home against the jungle skyline.
A Walk Through the Gushu: Where the King and Queen Trees Live
Our first stop was the "tourist route"—a quiet electric cart ride to the heart of the ancient tea gardens. Although clearly designed for visits, we were the only guests that morning, left alone with the old trees and their history.
Among them were the legendary “King” and “Queen” trees, standing tall among a biodiverse pocket of gushu forest, where four different cultivars grow side by side. Though some of the original old trees no longer produce enough to harvest commercially, the village has taken care to preserve this sacred zone—a living archive of what once made Laobanzhang so special.
Signs on the route ask visitors not to livestream or fly drones—a reflection of the commercialization and chaos that high demand has brought over the years.
Family No. 29: Bulang Hospitality and Unforgettable Tea
Back in the village, we were welcomed into Family No. 29, hosted by a Bulang matriarch and her son, a deputy village head and military veteran.
Over several rounds of tea—some fresh spring harvest, some aged from last year—we tasted what people mean when they speak of Laobanzhang cha qi. It was savory, full-bodied, almost like chicken broth, with a strength that crept up and warmed our whole bodies. Our own tea master did the brewing, and we carefully studied the leaves together, noticing how small differences in harvest days showed up in the shape, elasticity, and fragrance of the maocha.
Even as we sipped, the patriarch sat nearby in conversation with another village head, smoking casually between meetings. It felt like we were watching the old and new world of Pu’er unfold at the same time.
We Didn’t Buy Tea—And That’s Okay
This wasn’t a sourcing trip in the usual sense. While many travel to Laobanzhang with the goal of buying, we left without making a purchase. It was still early in the season, and the best harvest had yet to arrive. The price was steep, and we weren’t ready—nor were we sure our customers were.
But that visit planted something. We’ll be checking in again next year. We’ve stayed in touch with Ms. Ye, who keeps close ties with Family 29, and maybe—if the timing, taste, and tea spirit align—we’ll finally bring some back.
A Place Caught Between Legend and Change
Laobanzhang is changing.
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The trees no longer yield the same flavor as 20 years ago.
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The weather shifts year to year, and so does the harvest.
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The fame has brought fortune—but also pressure, imitation, and over-harvesting in surrounding areas.
Still, what we found was a village holding fast to its roots, even as it transforms. The flavor was real. The energy undeniable. This visit was a tribute—to the king of Pu’er tea, to the people who care for its legacy, and to the possibility that one day, we too might offer a piece of it to you.
Stay Tuned: Would You Want a Cha Moods Laobanzhang Release?
This spring visit was part of our ongoing journey to build deep, authentic relationships with tea producers across China. If you're someone who would be interested in a future small-batch Laobanzhang release, let us know. Your feedback helps guide what we bring in, and how.
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